How come I never got any comments on this photo on flickr? I think it's brilliant and funny. Ah, the mysteries of the internets.
After an uneventful return to Beijing (although I did have to see Hero 英雄 on a plane again), I rested for a day, didn't do anything and got ready to head back to Seattle via Vancouver.
Monday night, I was leaving dinner and got in a taxi where the driver didn't know how to operate a stick-shift. He appeared to be covering a shift for someone who knew how to drive a taxi properly. As we headed toward the 3rd Ring Road going 30km/h in 3rd gear, I realized that this would not do... and got in another one.
The next morning, I was taking a taxi (again - my life in Asia seems to be short periods of living interrupted by long rides in taxis, but I love it), and we got stuck in traffic 2 Km from the airport entrance. After about ten minutes of driving on the shoulder, I saw a five-car pileup in the left lane; three taxis and two passenger cars had collided.
Upon arriving at the airport, I saw a Turkmenistan Airlines jet readying for departure. Sadly, I couldn't get a photo of it.
Checking in at PEK is bizarre. Going into the Int'l Departures area, you first fill out a customs form, pass customs officers, then go to the ticketing hall to check in. If you're flying a major carrier, you have to search through many rows of check-in desks to figure out where your flight (and class of service) is checking in. After checking in, you then head through Immigation control, then security and presto, you're in the terminal.
My flight left on time and was pretty uneventful.
PEK airport logo
Beer left in the airport
Waiting in the airport...
PEK has a lot of cargo traffic across Asia
Air China tails
Yanjing Beer
Duck for dinner? Only on Air China!
Air China did show the worst movie I'd seen in a while - The Astronaut Farmer, a ridiculous, badly done story about a former astronaut who builds his own spacecraft in rural Texas. Say what?!
Rielly and I wandered into the Beijing Film Studio one afternoon. It's right next to the Beijing Film Academy. We snuck (well, walked) into the film studio through the back gate, bought some DVDs and ice cream at the store (we had to bargain for it), then we walked into another convenience store and went right out the back, directly onto a film set. Rielly had scoped all of this out before, so he knew where he was going. I was a few steps behind him as he wandered around, and there was an old lady in the convenience store. She yelled, "They don't understand! They don't understand!" when we walked in, and out of her store, going through the forbidden, but unlocked, door.
Then, we were on the film set, which was being readied for the filming of the new Chen Kaige film, starring Zhang Ziyi. It's a new film that is as yet untitled, about the life of an early 20th century opera star. The sets look pretty interesting. More photos are here.
Rielly and I wandered into the Beijing Film Studio one afternoon. It's right next to the Beijing Film Academy. We snuck (well, walked) into the film studio through the back gate, bought some DVDs and ice cream at the store (we had to bargain for it), then we walked into another convenience store and went right out the back, directly onto a film set. Rielly had scoped all of this out before, so he knew where he was going. I was a few steps behind him as he wandered around, and there was an old lady in the convenience store. She yelled, "They don't understand! They don't understand!" when we walked in, and out of her store, going through the forbidden, but unlocked, door.
Then, we were on the film set, which was being readied for the filming of the new Chen Kaige film, starring Zhang Ziyi. It's a new film that is as yet untitled, about the life of an early 20th century opera star. The sets look pretty interesting. More photos are here.
The old Summer Palace at Yuanmingyuan is haunting and beautiful. It's certainly one of the most interesting things that I have seen in a long time. The palace was originally built in a mostly Chinese style during the early Qing dynasty around 1750. The palace was continually expanded until 1860, when it was sacked by British and French troops (along with quite a few locals, apparently), and burned to the ground.
Since traditional Chinese palaces were built of wood, those parts are long gone. What remains, however, is the European-style ruins, which are quite bizarre - a mixture of rococo Italian and French styles of classical architecture with some distinct Chinese influences.
Set amongst large ponds filled with water lilies, the entire space is relaxing and beautiful and quite haunting when viewed a certain way.
I took the opportunity to visit it twice, once on a weekend afternoon when it was hot and crowded and again on a weekday morning when it was much more quiet. If you're in Beijing, skip 頤和園 - Yiheyuan - The "New" Summer Palace and instead, head to the old one. It's more real and far more fascinating.
More photos are in this set: Yuanmingyuan.
As you probably know, there was a big story out of Beijing last week that buns were made out of 60% cardboard at a certain bun shop in the massive Chaoyang district. Turns out, that it was all fabricated.
I wonder if this additional information will hit the same worldwide media the original story did. I doubt it.
We went to the great wall at 司馬台 on Saturday. Simatai is pretty interesting, but the wall is quite a big climb. Fortunately, you'll get your own guide, whether you want one or not. Mine had a unique hatred of Germans, I'm not not sure.
My class was hell-bent on hustling up several mountaintops. After a few towers, I realized that they were increasingly similar, yet harder to reach. Plus, we didn't eat breakfast. What the heck? So, my guide Mrs. Du, and I headed back and we chatted about her family while I tripped on the loose bricks on the way down.
Back at the base, I pulled out my brilliant book, ordered a Yanjing beer, some tea and then chatted with some French people about politics. After I wished them a happy Bastille day, they bought me some beer. After an hour and a half, my class came back, worn out and hungry. I was quite happy with myself (the beer helped my ego) and glad I ate when I did.
On the sleepy bus ride back, I saw perhaps the best blue truck ever! Unlike Taiwan, where blue trucks have four wheels, in the mainland, they often have three wheels - one in front, two in back (the mullet of blue trucks)... I saw one such three-wheeled bizarreness carrying a full load of donkeys in the back! I couldn't stop talking about it. Too bad, I didn't have my camera out... grar!
More photos of the great wall... on flickr, film is being developed presently...
Noted director Wang Xiaoshuai (王小帥*) taught our class Friday afternoon. I spent the morning sleeping in, puttering around and goofing off. I also did laundry!
Wang's lecture was pretty interesting. He told some fascinating stories about his early filmmaking days. Originally, he had been studying painting, but later became interested in filmmaking. After going to the Beijing Film Academy, he took a job in Fujian that he apparently really hated. Like many of the filmmakers here, he made some independent films, working outside the system. Interestingly, he considered himself part of the "luckiest" generation of Chinese filmmakers - he was afforded creative freedom and was able to produce films before the market for Chinese films was decimated in the past ten years. Yet again, we have the familiar refrain of a bad film market destroying opportunities to create films in China.
An actor from his new film, Shanghai Dreams, was along to listen to Wang speak. It was kind of interesting. I found Wang one of the better speakers we have had so far.
After class, I drug my classmates to the best. place. ever. 家樂福! Carrefour! Then, I rested, before going out for dinner in 國貿.
* Literally, King Little Handsome. He wins my award for best Chinese name of the year.
Director Li Yang led our class on Tuesday. He spoke at length about He was the director of Blind Shaft, which he claims is the first completely independent film made in the PRC. Because he worked outside the system, his film was banned, and he was banned from working within the Chinese film system for 3 years.
For his next film, he worked within the system, and it is about to be relased. Some interesting things that he said included:
What is becoming readily apparent, through hearing all of these filmmakers speak, is that there is a lacking market for Chinese films, and that a major struggle for their future will be to find an economic model for making film work. Few talk about opportunities in television, advertising, etc. Perhaps next week, we will discuss that more.
After Li Yang spoke, we went on a hutong tour, then had dinner. The hutong tour is well documented in this photoset. I don't think I can add anything to the masses of literature written on hutong life, other than to say that they're interesting, but likely poorly-suited for modern life in an urban environment.
I like Yanjing Beer. It's not bad. I like this shot, too. This is taken about 50M off of Tian'anmen Square where the old foreign legations once were built.
During the hot afternoon, Rielly, Chris Kim and I went on a walk through the lake area. There are lots of winding hutong streets, some bars, and it turns into a bit of a tourist trap. It's interesting and certainly worthwhile. Just make sure you don't have to go the bathroom... they're all scary public toilets.
Tiananmen Square is pretty hot and busy. This person got a bench and had a nice nap in the hot, hot heat.
I found this madness on TV the other day...
This guy had his shirt up above his nipples in the heat. It reminded me of the video for "Goodies" where Ciara wears that infamous sweater that stops just halfway down her boobs. It's a common look among men here in the humidity and heat. However, it makes me giggle.
Train ticket queues in China are something that are to be prepared and planned for. They're unbelievably long, disorganized and smoky. The one at Beijing station smelled like a bar in the US, minus the smell of alcohol (so it was sweat, smoke and bad breath)....
While on our way to Tianjin, we waited in this hall. Rielly was approached by a woman begging for money. He gave her a piece of hermetically sealed yak meat to eat. She took it eagerly and as we wandered away, he pointed out to me that she probably couldn't open it as she only had thumbs, but no fingers. How do you react to that? It's sad, and a bit funny.
Beijing seems to have some nice dogs and they seem to be purebred. I haven't seen many loose, stray dogs, but I did see a feral cat digging into trash to eat bones while I was walking back from the grocery store.